A Toast to Witches and Heads

Poor Friday the 13th. No one gets the day off, no family vacations center around it...most people aren't even aware of it and when they are, they just want to get past it.

This Friday, the 13th, however, I sat in the graveyard in Salem, MA and toasted witches, which, I think, is a pretty respectable way to celebrate this disrespected day. We were at a restaurant in Salem-all 30 of us-and six of us got there a little late. We ended up at "The Cool Kids' Table" (we named it shortly, since all 24 others were at a very "adult" table together) and had a great time sharing stories. At the end of dinner, one guy, Craig, whom I hadn't really talked to much yet, said he had brought some wine that he would like to share with some people, so he decided that those of us at The Cool Kids' Table were the lucky ones. Oh, and by the way, his special wine was made by Blondie's former bass player...Craig has been playing in a band with him for some time but didn't know this (evidently, the bass player doesn't talk about Blondie, only about wine). Craig invited us to drink this wine as if he were inviting us into the most precious secret society.

So that's how the six of us ended up "borrowing" wine glasses from the hotel and "sneaking" into the graveyard (my idea) at about ten (convinced we would be arrested or at least "caught" in this retro high school mischief) and drinking wine made by Blondie's former bass player for a few hours.

We toasted the witches, who, by the way, are not buried in the graveyard, since they were witches, you know. They didn't get a proper Christian burial. But there is a memorial to them right outside of the graveyard, and I will post the memorial for my favorite character, Giles Corey. He was not hanged, but was pressed to death, under stone. Instead of confessing to witchcraft (which would have saved him) all he did was ask for "more weight" and he died the most awful of deaths. (I would be confessing.)

After the toast, we told scary stories, appropriately. What story did I tell? Did I have a choice? Of course, I told my Head in the Refrigerator story (refer to previous post if you don't know this story). It was delicious, because by the time I was at the "....and then, I received an email, with the subject line all in caps, that read I WILL NOT BE IGNORED" part, everyone was understandably appalled and freaked out. We were in a cemetery, after all. So when I revealed the prank, what do you think they thought of my "friend" Dennis (pictured in lederhosen..."Crime Scene Photo."

The New Yorkers loved him. Especially Craig. He thinks that all of NY would love Dennis and his wicked sense of humor. You know, because New Yorkers are kinda mean. A few couldn't decide what they thought of him, like me, still. So, Dennis, are you feeling proud now? Your evil prank was a hit at the Salem cemetery on Friday the 13th. Good for you. But it was a great story telling night, which reminds me of another plaque I saw by the library:

When we first arrived in Salem, Sandra and I (the only real English teachers of the group) were so excited to see some witch trial stuff because we both teach Arthur Miller's The Crucible. We had less than two hours to eat lunch and be at the museum with the China exhibit, so we ran over to the Salem Witch Museum. I recommend it...like, say, if someone said you had to choose between a sharp stick in your eye or the museum, I would choose the museum.

It was awful. A bunch of scene recreations in a big dark room lit up as a spooky voice told the story we both knew so well. And then, we traveled into the next room, where the 20 year-old museum employee explained the "evolving perceptions wall." It had pictures of all kinds of witches on it, you know, like Samantha and Glenda and the Wicked Witch of the West, and oh yeah, a painting of a witch by De Goya. "This is the museum's really scary representation of a witch" she told us.

The town was full of witch stuff. A witch village, witch shops and restaurants, witches on brooms flying into telephone poles. Enough about that.

So, the moral of the witches is, if you go to Salem, don't be a modern day idiot (I am one) and pour money into touristy traps that allow other modern day idiots to capitalize on this tragedy and go see the Peabody Essex Museum instead. This holds a "jewel" (word used by our professor, Dr. Knapp). A home from the Qing Dynasty was completely dismantled, brick by brick, tile by tile, labeled, crated, shipped and reassembled as part of this museum. Like the biggest puzzle ever. It was truly fantastic and unfathomable how much work had gone into this project. Most people only get 20 minutes inside the house, but we got an hour, plus a tour by the person who knows everything about it, Nancy Berliner. I couldn't take pictures inside the house, but here is the outside:

I bought some postcards of the inside I will try to take pictures of tomorrow when there is more light, but if you would like, here is a link to the site (it's award-winning):

http://www.pem.org/yinyutang/

This house was occupied by one family for over 200 years (I mean generations of one family). When we left the house, I told Ron that I could see why he had such a passion for studying Chinese homes. He really lit up at that. When we were in the bookstore, I found a beautiful book about Chinese architecture and realized that Ron was the author. The person behind the desk said to me, "He's HERE today!" Nice.

We had some great seafood in Salem, on the water at Finz' Restaurant. My Cool Kids' Table was also cool about sharing, so even though I ordered the seared tuna over warm rice cake with crab and avocado wasabi sauce, I got to taste the grouper, the lobster ravioli, the scallops over gnocchi and the tilapia. All delicious, but we agreed that the most delicious taste of all was the fried oysters served in a paper bag. Not even very greasy, just soft and perfect with a great aoli. The only dish that wasn't good...the crab cakes. They tasted like Stove Top Stuffing (which is good unless you are eating crab cakes in Massachusetts and they taste like Stove Top).

It is 1:30 Sat night/Sun morning. I'm pretty sure that it's illegal to be in bed right now if you are in NY City for only one month, but man it was a long, hot bus ride from Salem today --five hours. We had a low-key night and just went to Indian Row, in the East Village, to a place called "Taj Mahal," and New York was dressed up and out. Scores of restaurants just inviting a step down and into amazing food, everywhere. Our dinner was good, but I prefer my Vegetarian Kosher finds on Curry Hill, I guess because they are northern and different. I think I am ready to move onto a new food now. I think humbao, right, Brian?

One more witch story. When we were at the graveyard during the day, this caped boy was leading a tour through the cemetery. I wanted to snap a quick picture. He saw me and said to his group, "Oh, let's get out of the way of this woman's picture." I said, "Um, actually...you ARE the picture." He said "Oh." Like it wasn't weird that he was leading people in a cape and torch.

Good afternoon, good evening and good night~

"Shopping is My Cardio"

(These two plaques are two of about 25 leading up to the New York Central Library on 5th Avenue. Every quote is about words, reading, etc. On the left is Langston Hughes...on the right is Ernest Hemingway)

Before I rewind to yesterday in order to get to today, I just must say "I LOVE NEW YORK!" I'm going to buy one of those cheesy shirts with the heart on it (or five for ten, like they sell them on the street). I just returned from seeing Rent and am on a New York high..."Five hundred sixty-five thousand two hundred minutes..." are you all singing along (and did I get that number right)? Chills is what that rock opera gave me. I am hooked. I feel like I have never really seen a musical until tonight. I loved it. And sitting next to us (just me and Bec, a cute, very young teacher from North Carolina) was a 14 year old musical enthusiast from San Francisco, who gave us a list of "must sees." #1 is (oh my god) Spring Awakening (you just HAVE TO SEE IT) (plus about ten others). But his advice concurs with my #1 blog fan's suggestion (thank you, Karyn!) So I will see that next.

Even though I saw Rent, shopped downtown for two hours, heard lectures for three hours and ate another amazing meal, somehow today didn't feel as busy as the others. I guess running from awning to awning last night was more exhausting than I realized.

OK, back to the rain. I left you when the other Seattleite and I were analyzing rain near 84th and Lexington. It was so dark- Gotham City dark -when the rain started to water-fall. After awning-hopping for a few minutes (we were on our way to an Irish bar to begin celebrations for Bec's 24th birthday- there she is in the picture) when we rushed into a pizza place, Mimi's, with a number of refugees. And there was another moment- pizza communion with strangers- trapped in deliciousness, eating a piece of plain cheese while peering out foggy windows.

Like I said, the Philharmonic idea literally washed away, we decided to go on an adventure for Bec's birthday, just four of us. We started at the Irish pub, then found our way to Central Station. Central station is cool. The ceiling is absolutely beautiful but I couldn't capture it very well. I guess it was going to be destroyed but Jackie O. saved it. There's a food court downstairs, an oyster bar, swanky bars, and a strip that is not unlike the Pike Place Market...rows and rows of fresh fish, meats, cheeses, bread, fruit and vegetables. I guess commuters pick up food to take it home. We each had a lobster puff and some barbecued shrimp, then moved on to Greenwich Village, where we decided to take Bec for dinner. Melissa from DC found Employees Only in her Time Out New York Guide. Employees Only is a very hip restaurant in the village, especially because they have a tarot card reader sitting in the front window. We were seated in the back room-which was a converted alley way covered with a glass/plastic roof with vines-and listened to the rain running. We loved the feel of this place, and the best thing I tasted was the Steak Tar Tar, which is quality raw beef, hand-cut and mixed with six ingredients, the best of which was white truffle oil. You could put truffle oil on a rubber band and it would be good (just like our mole conversation, Julie). Was it ever tasty. I couldn't get a very good picture in the dark back room, but the guy who prepared it was actually more interesting, so here he is:

Then we went to a bar in the village, Black Tiger, and got home around midnight. And I hadn't even been back to my room (the only thing I hate about New York...my mattress is plastic and oh yeah, I had to wait in line for fifteen minutes to take a shower this morning) since eight that morning. We had a GREAT speaker in the morning, from Brooklyn College, who manipulated quite a few centuries into a three hour lecture. He was only about 30 and was so passionate about both history and China.

So, today.

I told you about Rent. Oh, and the shopping. I'm trying to get my sister in law to respond, so I will talk about Bitten, the new Sarah Jessica Parker line of clothing. So Catcher in the Rye is the book I think about all the time here, and "Sex and the City" is the TV show. I was actually thinking of Carrie Bradshaw today as I walked around downtown...in one episode, she is trying to brainstorm how to save money (because Aiden evicted her, remember) and one of her friends suggests that she curb her shopping appetite. "But shopping is my cardio," she answers.

Anyway, SJP's new clothing line has NOTHING over $20. No shoes, dresses, jeans, nothing. A bunch of girls went yesterday and bought cute things, so I went today. I have to include this picture because right before I took it, a security guard told me not to, so I must share the forbidden picture. I bought a few things...pants, a shirt, flip flops and a bag and it was all under $40.

Then, since I was near Curry Hill, I couldn't resist (I was meeting Bec at the theater). I had Baigan Hyderabadi, which is Indian eggplant in a tomato/ peanut curry sauce. It was amazing (I love those little eggplants!) Sorry the picture isn't better, but it's hard to be inconspicuous...I am pretty self-conscious about my food obsession. But at least I didn't lick the plate when my naan was gone. I sure wanted to, though. The restaurant is called The Copper Chimney.

Well, that is all for now. I have to be up at 5:30 because we are going to Salem for a field trip, for Friday and Saturday. I can't wait! We are there to see an ancient Chinese home at the Peabody Essex Museum, but how about some crab cakes and some Witch Trial viewings? I really appreciate all of you who comment on my little blog. It's kind of a weird thing, blogging, but I really enjoy it. By the way, a guy in my program announced to me yesterday "Hey, I found your blog!" and of course it brought back all kinds of "Leif Erickson Comes to Norway" trauma. Well, now I know I can't write anything bad about anyone in my group (and I was just going to write some nasty things about you, Gordon~)

Good night~

Gordo the Wacko

This painting is by Steven Hannock and is called "The Oxbow." It's huge...and all over it he has written memories from his childhood, like this one, over on the right:

"This is where Gordo the Wacko almost blew Jimmy's head off with an M-80."

This is "Madame X" by John Singer Sargent. I couldn't wait to see this painting because I just read the book about the woman in the picture. It was stunning. Here is a picture of the park from the top of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
And here is a map of Central Park for those of you who haven't been to New York...so you can see how vast it is. Columbia is on the Upper West Side of the park in the Morningside Heights neighborhood. This next picture really caught me by surprise...we were on a tour of the Chinese exhibit when we walked by a courtyard - a courtyard completely redone by an architect from Suzhou. I recognized the garden immediately - "Garden of the Nets"- which I saw last summer. It was almost an exact replica. Suzhou is a beautiful city that hosts many classical gardens, none of which were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution.

It started to rain while we were in the museum, but guess what...I came prepared. I've been caught in New York rain before, so I carry an umbrella in my bag at all times. Which is something I don't do in Seattle. Seattle rain has nothing on New York rain. NY rain is a deluge! Everyone runs for cover underneath an awning. I happened to share my awning with a guy from Seattle, where of course we discussed rain. A bunch of us were planning to see the Philharmonic in Central Park, but the rain changed our plans. Instead we went on another walking/subway tour until midnight, and had way too much fun for me to write about at this time, since I have class in just an hour. Maybe later!

The Hot Dog Greatness Question

Nice arrangement today at Strawberry Fields.

Highlights:

Started my day with a run along Riverside Park - just one block from campus. It's a beautiful park - must be miles long - with, again, tennis courts, playgrounds, soccer fields and skate parks. It's been hot the past few days, but NOT China-hot. I think that China-hot made me very tough last summer. The difference is that New York-hot doesn't make me pour sweat from my forehead, but it's just hot enough to justify lots of gelato while you walk. New York-hot doesn't suck your breath right out of your lungs, either.

Back to Central Park for a free concert at the Summer Stage tonight. Free music, films, readings and dances are scheduled at this field all throughout the summer. Four of us went and saw a few Latin groups and a documentary about Mexico and globalization. It's just fun to be in Central Park, no matter what. We actually had a great time compiling all of our guide books and maps and made wish lists of what we wanted to do in NY while we waited for the music to start.

Afterwards, we found Gray's Papaya hot dogs. In the picture is John from Albany, Trisha from Baltimore and taking the picture is Melissa from DC. These are infamous dogs...and while they were good, I just wonder, can a hot dog be truly great? OK, here is where some comments can be made from the comment-shy readers. I repeat: can a hot dog be truly great? If so, where was that hot dog and what made it great? Then we got gelato...I had nutella and roasted almond. I think we walked about seven miles tonight. Tomorrow is Metropolitan Museum Day.

Fireflies and Highlights

Today was just one biiiiiiiggggg highlight. We started our day at 9:00 on campus, and Uris Hall 141 was alive with chatter with the 30 participants, from all over the US - mostly women - teachers with from one to 30 years of teaching experience.

Everyone had to stand and give a two-minute introduction, and I'm telling you, these are 30 well-traveled people. About a third of us have been to China, two were born in China, and one was born in Taiwan (her mother is afraid she is being brainwashed by The China Institute).

After introductions, Ron Knapp, our main professor, lectured for about 80 minutes on China's geography. He was GREAT, to our relief. He is very engaging, uses many anecdotes and the latest technology. We sit in a room of three tiers, in very comfortable padded swivel chairs. Throughout the seminar, we will have many guest lecturers, from Harvard, Stanford, etc.

After the lecture, we got a tour of campus and then I came back and took a very deep long nap, the kind where you are in an ocean of sleep, for two hours. Then we had a reception dinner - a Chinese feast - at a restaurant down the street from Columbia. Afterwards, about eight of us walked through Central Park, then went to a local Cuban bar for pitchers of half price mojitos. It's so much fun to sit and talk with people who love to travel and teach and learn, etc. These people have major connections to scholarships, etc., so one girl says she is going to make a website with tips from everyone, combined.

A particular highlight, as part of this all-day highlight, was seeing all of the fireflies lighting up the park. I have never seen fireflies before.

Great day, but I am tired. I didn't sleep last night because I had that first day of school nervousness. I am going to love the next four weeks, though. These people are interesting and fun and want to do everything New York.

Holden and The Squaw's Bosom

Found myself back at Strawberry Fields again (in Central Park), and the flower arrangement was quite different from yesterday...today was carnations, yesterday was rose petals. I will take a picture whenever I pass it and post it here (John Lennon was murdered not far from here, on West 72nd Street, near his home, The Dakota.) Beatles songs seem to be playing constantly near this site-but again, I'll keep you posted.

Today's highlights:

1). This is a dosai (pronounced dough-sah) and is a crepe made from a fermented batter of rice flour and lentils, from an Indian vegetarian kosher restaurant on Murray Hill (curry hill) north of the East Village, called Pongol. It is stuffed with spiced potatoes, onions and cilantro. I know the filling looks like eggs, but it's curried potatoes.

The highlight of my day. Eating the crepe was like eating (tasty) air, it was sooooo light. In the bowls are coconut chutney and sambar (a really good dip). In the bigger bowl is "hot Indian bean soup." I could eat on Curry Hill every day for this next month and be completely happy (I think). It was divine.

2.) Some of you know all too well my obsession with the book Catcher in the Rye and its protagonist, Holden Caulfield. Well, hardly a day goes by that I don't think about that book (like if someone has a bad personality, I think maybe he/she is privately a very good whistler...or like having the need to "feel a goodbye"- like when Holden gets that feeling when he throws a football around after sunset before he leaves school...etc, little thoughts like that). I have taught that book about 15 times, I think. And I never tire of it.

Well, here in NY, I have about ten times the usual thoughts about it, since Holden spends so much time here, especially near Central Park and since JD SALINGER also attended Columbia. So, knowing that background, you will understand why another highlight was having a Holden day. I went to the American Museum of Natural History, where Holden thinks he might see his little sister, Phoebe. He is comforted by the fact that everything remains the same in the museum, frozen in time (like the squaw he and his friends were very aware of...her and her bare bosom (I have a category in my Jeopardy game named "The Squaw's Bosom" to cover the chapter on the museum.) When he actually gets to the museum, though, he can't go in, you see, because even though everything there has stayed the same, HE has changed (his little brother died and he is in a state of paralysis) and he cannot face it. Ahem...sorry, if you want to hear more someday, I will be happy to divulge more about Holden and his need to protect innocence.

LOVED the museum, which are three words I hardly ever write, unless it's an art museum. Got lost in past cultures and the skeletal remains of extinct species for three hours. My nephew, Devon, would love it. This picture of the giant extinct wombat is for you, Devon. Look at his buck teeth. Then I continued my Holden day in:

3.) Central Park. Every day I could include this as a highlight. I hope to take 32 more naps here before returning to Seattle. Today I enjoyed a lime popsicle while contemplating where to take nap #2. I passed one of many ponds where Holden wonders where the ducks go in the winter, and the carousel where he has his breakdown while watching Phoebe go "around and around."

While at the park, I watched disco roller dancing for about a half an hour. Excellent dancing, performed by all ages, colors and sizes. I particularly liked this guy and his pants, which must have been made out of about five thick terry cloth towels. Another woman must have been about 70, dressed in tight black pants and a fringe and diamond tank top.

I did go back to the Half Price ticket place with the intention of seeing Rent today Yesterday, I just could not understand why the whole world didn't buy tickets at this stand and envisioned myself seeing Broadway shows every day. Well, today I figured out why...there is a two-hour wait in line. Yesterday-completely naively-I cut in through the back and walked right up to the counter. I did not even know that a line existed around the corner for about three miles. Ah.....if only it were that easy. Today the guy winked at me and said he would let me in the back, but I thought about my friend Jaci and how she would not approve at all because cutting in line is in her book of "nevers." I kinda wish I had, though, because when I came back at 7, I was contemplating whether or not to take a bad seat to see Fantasia in The Color Purple (that was all that was left) when a guy from "The Laugh Factory" offered me a ticket to see improv for ten dollars. I bought it, and went, and it was OK. But it sure wasn't Rent! Or The Color Purple (maybe). But there was a Baptist Gospel choir on stage in Times Square, which has possibly the loudest sound system in the world, and they were great.

I think I am ready for human contact, now. Tomorrow, China.

Naps = Happiness

Got up at 6. That's 3 to you (and me). Just got back (it's 10:30). My feet are propped up, and aching.

I always overdo it on my first day in a place. But if someone were to ask me to describe ten perfect days, one of them would be to wake up in New York City with no agenda and just let the city happen to me. I did this one day three summers ago when my sister and I brought my mom here for her retirement present, and I got to do it again today (maybe tomorrow, too). New York is a city so full of nice surprises, that I am intentionally keeping a low profile so I can do this before all of the China Dynasty craziness begins on Monday. I bought a 30-day Metro pass for $76, so everything is right near me. I love the subway.

Since I can hardly keep my eyes open, I will merely describe some great moments from my day:

1. Seeing In the Heights...an off-Broadway show about a Latino neighborhood in New York. It's moving to Broadway, and the energy was amazing. Hip-hop, rap, ballet -- this musical had it all. Here is the NY Times review: http://theater2.nytimes.com/2007/02/09/theater/reviews/09heights.html

I went to the half-price ticket booth in Times Square and was absolutely overwhelmed with the choices. My list for now includes Rent, Mama Mia, Spring Awakening, Spamalot and Phantom of the Opera. We'll see how many get marked off this list. Anyway, I almost missed the 2 o'clock show. I thought I knew where it was, but when I arrived at that location, I asked the hot dog man where the theater was. "It's seven blocks that way, and little lady, you'd better run!" (because it was ten to two, but that was funny because I was so much taller than he was, but for sure not wider). So I ran, and arrived right at two, sweating horribly.

2. Taking a nap in Central Park. Central Park is one of my favorite places in the world. Here you are, walking down magical city streets with magical food everywhere (just blocks from Columbia are delis with homemade falafel and lentil stews and paninis and sushi and Indian curries) and then you cross a threshold and there you are in magical Central Park. The juxtaposition of city and greenery is just so unreal, you feel you are in a (very vast) fantasy land. And there was this cute little farmer's market where I entered the park. I napped for twenty minutes prior to my show, very near to that park bench up there.

3. This piece of pizza, from Bleecker Street Pizza. If you ask my mom what her favorite food memory of New York is, she will tell you about the pizza from this place. So, here you go, mom, a bite for you. It was great!

Here are some more random scenes from today: the "Naked Cowboy" in Times Square. He was singing "Mama, Don't Let Your Babies Grow up to be Cowboys" but could hardly get through a line without dopey girls wanting to pose with him. I doubt he knew all the lyrics to the song, anyway.

NY is such a civilized place...very kid friendly, too. So many parks, playgrounds, skate parks, bike paths, etc. Kids loved this fountain, on the Hudson River path:

I also love all of the gardens along the city sidewalks:

Now it is most definitely bedtime. Good night!